Spend a summer’s day in the Albanian countryside. Head out of Sarandë, inhale the aroma of Mediterranean flora, and visit the Blue Eye, source of the Bistrice River. The UNESCO World Heritage site of Butrint is a small but well preserved ruin spanning Greek to Ottoman times, nestled in the woods on the shore of Lake Butrint. The town of Sarandë itself has undistinguished modern architecture, interestingly studded with signs of the ancient ways: scarecrows, garlic wreaths, and evil-eye amulets. Wherever you roam during a day in Albania, you’ll deepen your sense of the complexities of Balkan life.